Cute Until Further Notice
2026-02-08 · Prachuap Khiri Khan, Thailand
Many call the Dusky Leaf Monkeys simply “the cute monkeys” to distinguish them from the macaques. And cute they are — most of the time, at least. As you will see.
The location to visit them is just as interesting — and unusual. You approach the military guard at the entrance of the base and explain where you want to go. Usually, you’ll say “to the beach” or “to the monkeys.” You sign in briefly and are waved through.
The most popular swimming beach in Prachuap Khiri Khan is Ao Manao, about five kilometers south of town, right in the middle of Wing 5 of the Royal Thai Air Force base. That’s where the water is clean and the beach well kept. Only unknowing tourists wade into the water along the long sea-walled bay in town. Locals will quietly tell you that’s where the sewage goes.
To reach the monkeys, you take a different turn and are stopped by another soldier. Here, you’re asked to hand in at least one passport from your group. It’s a simple system, meant to ensure that everyone who goes in will also come back out.
The monkeys’ home base is a beautiful park dominated by a single, awe-inspiring tree. It feels calm and almost ceremonial — until the residents make their presence known. Accustomed to people and their treats, the monkeys waste no time, and the fun begins immediately.
We came prepared, carrying mandarin oranges and peanuts in their natural shells. One by one, they politely accepted a piece or a slice at a time. Some hopped onto shoulders or backs; others settled in for a better view by perching on our parked bike.
They are incredibly smart. I’ll never forget last year’s strategic planning by one particular family. I was carrying a small plastic bag with oranges and peanuts, trying to be fair as I handed out the treats. The mother, her baby glowing orange, was clearly in charge and observed for a while, while the father — I assume — did whatever she instructed him to do.
After a few minutes, the couple began throwing the other monkeys off the branches. And I mean throwing them. Then she approached me, still testing the waters. She took a slice with one hand — and suddenly grabbed the entire bag with the other.
That was the end of this feeding session.
Who, in the end, was really watching whom?
